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The Latest from Beijing

It’s official. I’m falling in love again. This time, with China. This is such a captivating country that I feel energized just by being here. Of course, there have been adjustments. After Dan’s cough passed, I got sick as my body struggled to adjust to the new environment. But we’re both riding the wellness train now and have been meeting new friends, exploring the city, and eating a whole lot.

When it comes to food, Beijing is the gift that keeps on giving. You can find just about anything here, from every corner of the world, and often for a terrific price. One night we had a five-course meal (including drinks and dessert) for 70RMB, or $10.30. Naturally we’ve been eating at lots of Chinese restaurants—which can be rambunctious. The dishes are served in large family style portions and are heavy and filling. Usually when I walk out the door I’m so full I can’t imagine ever needing to eat again. And although chopsticks and I don’t always get along, we're moving in the right direction.

One dining highlight was eating lunch at a “hot pot” restaurant. First, each person in        our group was given their own pot of simmering stock. Then we passed around raw ingredients such as lamb, yams, lotus roots, melons, tofu skins, seaweed, and noodles, and selected items to drop into our boiling pots. Once cooked, we dipped the goodies    into a little bowl of sesame sauce and ate to our heart’s content. Yum! Another night we went to dinner at a busy local restaurant. At the front of the main room stood an excited hostess who was urging a representative from each table to spin a large wheel. The highest prize was free meals for the whole table. One table after another got lucky and     the restaurant kept erupting into applause. After eating, my table sent me up to spin.          I crossed my fingers for triumph but only won a Coke. Doh!

Although Dan and I are venturing into new culinary terrain, we’re not yet adventurous enough to try everything on the menu. Some items we have yet to taste include: jellyfish head in sour sauce, donkey rolls, sea lion cake, chick feet with pickled peppers, and fungus porridge. I suspect we’ll get bolder in the months ahead. In the meantime, here’s    a picture of a gorgeous dumpling platter we devoured last weekend:

Along with the restaurants, the parks in Beijing are fabulous. They're lush and calming, often with a marshy body of water in the center. One favorite Chinese pastime is exercising in the parks. To name just a few activities, people powerwalk, dance, and do yoga and tai chi. They also gather around rusty, public weight machines and take turns lifting. Sometimes there is live music in the parks. Although I don’t always recognize the instruments, the music strikes me as soothing and emotionally expressive. Below are some pictures from Beihai Park, which is one of the largest Chinese gardens:

Dan and I also greatly enjoyed visiting our first hutong recently. Hutongs are narrow      lanes and alleys scattered throughout the city in which residents retain much of their old, traditional lifestyle. They're an important part of Beijing culture. It was fun to pop in and out of shops, taste new foods, and soak up the lively vibe. Yet I was surprised to see cars plowing through the hutong we visited. Here are a couple of pictures:

Finally, we just spent a couple of days at the Goose & Duck Ranch on the outskirts of town. The setting felt like a rustic, family-oriented camp and it offered activities such as archery, horse riding, and go-karting. Below is a picture of us getting ready to ride a go-kart. Right after the picture was snapped, we discovered that the seat belts on the go-kart were defunct, and then the throttle promptly broke! Some things are just more lax around here. We rolled with the punches and still managed to have a grand time whizzing around the track.

So…it’s a joy to live in China, and we’ve only begun to explore. I’ll keep you posted.         Until next time, be well!

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  1. Brittany Billingsley
    August 17th, 2010 at 18:47 | #1

    I'm glad both of you are physically doing better.  Readjusting does take some time.  I'm also glad you made it to BeiHai.  I really loved that park when I was staying in Beijing. 
     
    I was never want for good food in China while I was there – though I've tried some things that I don't feel the need to savor again (like snouts and bone marrow).  I always went with the attitude that you had to be willing to try dishes twice.  Who knows?  Maybe that first time it was just a bad batch, or the cook wasn't on his A-Game.  What's nice about Beijing is that you can sample flavors from all over China.  I loved Sichuan and Hunan because of the spice, but dim sum lunches are always a lot of fun too.  Have you tried the chuanr (pr. chwar) yet?  It's the meat shishkabobs that you'll find being sold on the streets.  They made great late evening snacks.  I'd check out a Xinjiang (Uighur) restaurant when you get a chance – definitely not the standard "Chinese" menu, and wonderfully so.

  2. Natalie
    August 17th, 2010 at 23:26 | #2

    Ann, Do you feel a big difference about Beijing/China from before? Must be. Hope there are more and more Amferican people can come to China and know a real China. 

  3. August 18th, 2010 at 00:13 | #3

    Thanks Brittany. I do feel physically adapted now, which is great.

    I love your comment about trying new dishes twice. There sure is wisdom in that! I did try a lamb shishkebab the other day and it was delicious. We’re keeping all of your great tips in mind as we go…much appreciated!

    –Ann

  4. August 18th, 2010 at 00:45 | #4

    Thanks for your comment, Natalie. Although I’d learned a lot about China before moving here, my understanding of the country and culture is expanding by experiencing it firsthand. For example, I’m constantly struck by the contrasts in Beijing. On the one hand, huge buildings, constant development, and glitz and glamour. On the other hand, humble street markets, old bikes and rickshaws, and rock-solid family ties. Just soaking it all in. :)

    Ann

  5. Adam
    August 19th, 2010 at 17:49 | #5

    I just saw this this article in the New York Times Magazine and it made me think of your book. I'm curious to know what you think of it. It's good to hear you're enjoying China. Yay for clear blue skies.

  6. Carolyn Spangler
    August 19th, 2010 at 21:11 | #6

    Ann,  Thank you for your stories and photos. Knowing how to speak Chinese will enrich your experience, especially walking through the hutongs where you can talk to the people. Do you dare to eat the food at the street side cafe's?  I always wanted to and I suppose it's okay if it's cooked, but we never dared to while in China. Keep writing.

  7. August 19th, 2010 at 22:45 | #7

    Thanks Adam. I’ll take a look at the article soon and get back to you.

    –Ann

  8. August 19th, 2010 at 22:54 | #8

    I always enjoy your comments and tips Carolyn! We have eaten at small cafes that are bustling with locals, but not street food per se. Especially while our bodies are adjusting, we’re being fairly careful about what and where we eat. I think you’re right that learning Chinese will really enhance my experience. Dan’s doing great with his language skills and I’m planning to start classes soon.

    Thanks for writing,
    Ann

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