Ann Elizabeth Grace, Author

The People’s Republic of China is a country that has long fascinated me. When Dan told me that he had been offered a yearlong fellowship in Beijing, I was shocked. So much so that my legs suddenly felt weak. I lowered to the ground in front of a theater, absorbing the news as movie-goers politely dodged around me.

Luckily my shock wore off, because here we are! Last week’s trip went as smoothly as seventeen hours of travel could go. Our excitement must have been visible; on our layover in Chicago, a woman randomly asked if we were newlyweds. No, we replied,       just looking forward to our travels. From Chicago to Beijing we sat in the last row of the enormous aircraft. Sleep was extra difficult to grab because our route took us high above the Arctic Circle, so the sky stayed light for most of the flight. 

Stepping off the plane into the Beijing airport, I felt as if I had launched into the future.       The airport sparkled with glass walls and dome-like ceilings dotted with glittering lights.       We were happy to arrive at our apartment, which is a lovely two-bedroom in a high-rise building with impressive city views. Thankfully it is also equipped with a water purifying system—a big plus in a city suffering from poor water quality.

Dan left for his first day of work early the next morning, and I ventured by myself into the city. Topping my “To Do” list was buying a few things for my laptop. Cabs are very cheap here, so I flagged one down and headed to the giant computer store nearby. Whizzing through the streets, I observed endless large buildings that are somewhat spread out—giving Beijing a different feeling from, say, New York City. The traffic can be wild,       with cars, busses, cabs, scooters, bikes, rickshaws, and pedestrians fighting for space.

Entering the bright, crowded computer store was dizzying. I positioned myself next to a screen open to the program Google Translate. Via typing, I began haggling with an employee for my items. I’ve heard that when negotiating prices in China, the angrier the vendor becomes, the better your deal (and the happier the vendor, the worse your deal). So when the employee refused to go any lower on a backpack, I just shrugged and turned to walk away. The threat of losing my business quickly prompted him to drop the price.    But my victory was short-lived: Later I realized that I had still been overcharged. Lesson learned: Until mastering the dollar-renminbi conversion, don’t leave home without a calculator!

The next few days were fun and eventful. One night Dan and I went out to dinner with another couple. A single glance at the menu tossed my semi-vegetarianism out the window. Duck is my favorite meat, and Beijing duck has the reputation of being melt-in-your-mouth tasty, so I had to give it a try. And WOW!

Over the weekend we visited two of China’s most famous landmarks: Tian’anmen Square and the Forbidden City. We roamed these vast spaces while sweating profusely in the overwhelming heat. Several people approached to ask if we would take photos with them or their children, and we gladly obliged. Dan put his Mandarin to good use to chat with other visitors and to help us navigate the crowds. Braving the subway on the way home was intense: It was so packed that we had to physically shove our way on and off. We wrapped up the weekend with a Sunday evening stroll to Ritan Park, a lush oasis in the midst of the city. People of all ages were enjoying themselves, from little kids playing games to middle-aged and elderly men flying kites high into the sky. On the walk back we stopped for freshly squeezed watermelon juice, then it was time to crash.

As we continue to settle in, it’s obvious that one of the biggest adjustments to living in Beijing is the air pollution. Of course, I had heard about this country's pollution problems for years. But experiencing it firsthand is pretty shocking. The sky reminds me of cold winter days growing up in Minnesota. Often it looks thick, heavy, and white, as if snow is threatening to pour down. Dan developed a cough after we first arrived but he is adjusting day by day. Thank goodness the locals have assured us it’s not always so bad!

Overall, spending a year in China is a wonderful opportunity and my gratitude runs deep. In the coming days and months I look forward to immersing in my surroundings as much as possible. Since I’m not supposed to work here, my official occupation on my visa application is “Housewife.” (Umm…not my strongest skill set…wish me luck!) In addition to my domestic duties, I plan to stay busy with numerous projects including writing, studying, volunteering, taking Mandarin classes, and whatever else captures my attention.

So…for the next installment of The Real Housewife of Beijing, stay tuned!